|Although this is just a picture and not a video, perhaps you can imagine the song of the cicada?|
Tuesday, August 23, 2016
Tuesday, August 16, 2016
Friday, August 12, 2016
|The weeds are winning...|
I'm a gardener, not a lawn-guy.
I'm passionate about trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals, but turf generally bores me (and strikes me as ultra-wasteful, but that's a rant for another day).
On the other hand, I'm not necessarily happy having a lawn that's totally overgrown by weeds. And I do recognize that some of those weeds will spread or reseed into the garden beds (where I'll have to pull them out).
So ... my question to you fellow gardeners is what, if anything, do you do to maintain your lawn?
|Yeah, I could hand-pull these weeds, but not their hundreds of brethren on the rest of my property. (Tried that in previous years. It's a Sisyphean task that led to only heartache -- and backache!|
1) Overseed next month
2) Possibly spray some broad-leaf herbicide if/when we get a relatively cool, dry and non-windy day.
3) Put down some organic fertilizer in November to help the grass build its roots
4) Spread some pre-emergent herbicide (i.e., Preen) next spring. Preen's manufacturer recommends spreading its product around the time you see forsythia trees start to bloom. (I don't know if that works everywhere. But there are certainly enough forsythias around my neighborhood that it should serve as a suitable clock here.)
5) Preen's supposed to work for about 8 weeks, I think. So I was thinking I'd possibly spread some more Preen in early summer next year and then call it a day.
What do you think of this plan? I hate to use herbicides in the garden, but after years and years of pulling weeds by hand on my 3/4-acre lot, I can tell that the weeds will win (are winning) if I don't intervene.
I should note that I'm not looking for artificial monoculture perfection. I've no problem with the lawn being 10% or even 25% weeds, but right now I think the weeds are in the majority and aiming for total domination.
(I don't spray any herbicides or put down any pre-emergent chemicals in the garden beds themselves. The shrubs, perennials and annuals seem to do a pretty good job of outcompeting the weeds, and I don't mind hand-weeding whatever weeds do pop up in the beds. But I don't see any way that the turf will ever be able to outcompete the weeds.)
I'm interested to hear how you approach weeds / lawncare on your own property? Any tips (especially from Southern gardeners dealing with the same typical summer heat/drought issues that we get in Tennessee)?
Tuesday, August 9, 2016
I feel I've learned a lot over the past 5+ years gardening in Middle Tennessee.
I've found all sorts of plants - trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals - that can survive and even thrive in awful compacted clay with a tough-love regimen of low-input style gardening (i.e., benign neglect -- no fertilizer, supplemental water only under severe drought conditions).
Yet, I still spend a lot of time these days thinking about how to cover bare ground.
|Ajuga tenorii 'Chocolate Chip' is probably the easiest-to-control Ajuga, but the flip side is that it spreads the slowest.|
What I mean is this -- Imagine that you have a large lawn (like many American homeowners). You recognize that your lawn isn't doing much for wildlife and that it's not exactly eco-friendly. (In most parts of the country, lawns require supplemental water, fertilizer, reseeding and so forth to make them look good. And then there's the mowing and the string-trimming and so forth.)
So you want to put in a big garden bed - some trees, some shrubs, some perennials - and get rid of let's say 1/4 or 1/2 your lawn in one fell swoop.
But what do you use to cover ground among the plants to prevent the new bed from becoming a weedy mess?
One option is to put down mulch. (See Deb's Alabama gardening blog for a nice overview of the pros and cons associated with different types of mulch.)
That may actually not be a bad choice for at least a couple of years until the trees, shrubs and perennials get established and hopefully begin shading out or occupying a good bit of the soil to outcompete the weeds (or at least give them a run for their money).
But in many cases (at least in my neck of the woods), people seem to get stuck on the 'wide of expanses of mulch among a few isolated plants' look. Not only is it ugly and bare looking (IMHO), but it requires annual or semi-annual remulching and (I suspect) pre-emergent herbicides to keep weeds from filling in all that bare space.
(Also, if the landscapers apply too much mulch repeatedly, I don't think it's especially healthy for whatever plants do live in those beds, which can get swamped by inches and inches of wood chips.)
But what other options do you have?
Theoretically, you could scatter some seeds and hope that floriferous annuals fill in the space until your larger plants have matured. I'm thinking of plants like Tagetes patula (French marigold) or Zinnia elegans (zinnia), perhaps a dwarf cultivar of Helianthus annuus (sunflower).
But there are some drawbacks to this plan. If you are spreading annual seeds, you can't mulch too heavily (or spread pre-emergent herbicide, for obvious reasons). The right conditions for wildflower seeds to germinate might also be the right conditions for weed seeds to germinate, so you'll need to hand-weed the bed until the annuals get going and (again) start shading out the soil and outcompeting weeds.
Some annuals can grow quite tall and bushy. This year, I had about 1,000 volunteer Cosmos (C. bipinnatus) plants show up. I don't think I'm exaggerating. Having a lot of ground to fill, I let many of them grow into a mini Cosmos forest.
It was lovely in June and July when many of the plants were in full bloom.
But packed together, competing for sunlight and nutrients, many of the plants did not bloom at all. The dense growth attracted pests (spittlebugs, mainly) which drained the plants of vigor. Stressed by heat and humidity, many of the plants started to die - turning brown from the ground up.
I could have uprooted these plants, but I decided to try to cut them off at the base, so that their roots would decompose in place and hopefully jumpstart the process of soil conditioning and improvement.
Many of the seeds were probably eaten by finches before I started culling the Cosmos. Many other seeds are probably still on the seedheads that I scattered through the beds, so I am sure there will be a whole lot of Cosmos seedlings next year too.
But next year I plan on doing a lot more winnowing early in the year when the Cosmos seedlings are still just a few inches tall. I'll hoe or chop or pull them at that stage when I don't need a lopper or a bypass pruner to cut them down.
That's not to say I'm giving up on annuals (or short-lived perennials) entirely. I'm just saying that I think that certain plants like Gaillardia x grandiflora (blanket flower) or Chamaechrista fasciculata (partridge pea) might be a bit less troublesome to deal with at the end of the season (and/or might have a longer flowering season for me than Cosmos bipinnatus). Of course, your mileage will vary and your ideal annuals will differ from one climate and zone to another...
But are annuals even a wise choice? What are the other options besides annuals and mulch?
Well, the two other obvious choices (am I missing any others?) would be perennial groundcovers and shrubs.
In both cases, of course, there's certainly a possibility that a weed will germinate and grow underneath another plant, but in my limited experience, weeds are much less problematic if you have a bed chock full of other garden plants.
I have a few shrubs like Vibnurnum x pragense (Prague viburnum), Viburnum dentatum (arrowwood viburnum) and Myrica cerifera (wax myrtle) that do seem to shade out the ground beneath them pretty well and impede weed germination.
|The evergreen foliage and bushy habit of this wax myrtle (Myrica cerifera) seem to do a good job of shading the soil and discouraging weeds.|
|I don't see many weeds growing beneath the evergreen 'canopy' of this Prague viburnum (Viburnum x pragense)|
Of course, by their nature, upright or even rounded shrubs won't cover a massive amount of ground, at least not very quickly, because they want to grow up as much as (or perhaps even more than) they want to grow out. Other shrubs I grow such as Philadelphus 'Natchez' (mock orange) and Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon) are even more upright. They have a very small 'footprint' that makes them easy to fit into a garden bed, but I think doesn't do much at all for impeding weeds around their base.
So why not get a sprawling shrub with a groundcover habit? I've tried something like that a few times and often I have been less than pleased with the result. Ultimately, I've chickened out and shovel-pruned several of these groundcover-type shrubs.
So far, that list of gone-but-not-forgotten includes Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Rosa setigera (climbing prairie rose) and most recently Rhus aromatica 'Gro-Low' (fragrant sumac).
The problem for me is that all of these plants were (a) too rambunctious and (b) not really dense enough to block weeds.
Take the Gro-Low sumac. In a few years, a single one of my plants probably sprawled about 10 feet across -- and that was with multiple prunings. This year, the pace of growth really picked up and I couldn't keep the plant within the bounds of its bed even with pruning it every few weeks. I think there were stems that put on 6 feet of new growth this year alone.
Now I recognize that for some people, a wildly rambunctious and fast-growing plant could sound exciting. Perhaps you want to remove all the grass on a large hillside and replace it with Gro-Low sumacs, letting them sprawl out and hopefully rapidly cover the hillside.
Well, recall the story of Mickey Mouse and the broomstick in Fantasia. Even when the fountain was overflowing and the whole castle was flooded, the broomstick was hell-bent on adding more water.
When the Gro-Low sumac reaches the end of its designated area, will it stop? I don't think so. Perhaps it would eventually slow down as the ends of the branches got further and further from the core... except that Gro-Low sumac (like both winter jasmine and the climbing prairie rose) has a tendency to tip-layer ... meaning that where branches make extended contact with the soil (a frequent occurrence in low-growing, sprawling plants), those branches tend to develop roots. So in a sense, the 'root ball' of the plant continuously expands, the plant gets stronger and sends up new shoots, which curve back down, make contact with the soil, develop new roots and the cycle continues.
One option (I considered this before shovel-pruning the sumacs) might be to conduct a drastic pruning on the plants every winter, pruning them back close to the ground. It seems to me that there's a chance such continual drastic rejuvenation pruning might kill the plant anyway, but even if it did survive, you'd be looking at multiple months without much soil coverage - which would enable weed germination or (in our imaginary slope context) soil erosion.
|The bare space you see here was previously covered by three Rhus aromatica 'Gro-Low' shrubs. In three years, these shrubs filled the space and strove continuously to expand beyond the confines of this bed.|
In fact, even without rejuvenation pruning, a deciduous shrub like Gro-Low sumac doesn't necessarily offer any groundcover protection in the winter months. If it sheds its leaves in November and doesn't leaf out until April (here in Tennessee), you're looking at 6 months of bare branches and bare soil beneath. Weeds will (did) germinate beneath the shrub. Some of them may be shaded out when the shrub leafs out in the spring, but others will (did) simply grow above the shrub's canopy. And it's not fun or easy to get in amid a tall, woody groundcover to try to pull weeds. (The problem seems even worse amid a tall, woody and thorny groundcover, which is one reason that I ended up shovel-pruning the Rosa setigera.)
You can of course go with an evergreen groundcover shrub. Depending on your climate and soil, you may have quite a few options in this category or you may have only a few (or perhaps none at all). In Tennessee, two of the best options I've found so far that fit this bill would be Juniperus virginiana 'Grey Owl' (some people think 'Grey Owl' is actually a hybrid juniper, but Missouri Botanical Garden lists it as a cultivar of our native eastern red cedar) or the prostrate version of the Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia).
Due to their evergreen nature, not only are they prettier in the winter (IMHO), but they also seem to do a much better job of covering the soil and discouraging weeds. As far as I know, neither of these plants actually roots into the soil as it spreads, which makes it much easier to prune the shrubs back if they start growing out of bounds. And although they spread at a reasonable pace (perhaps 12 inches per year), I have not found it especially challenging to control or direct their spread so far.
|'Grey Owl' juniper|
Beyond woody groundcovers, there are also perennial herbaceous groundcovers, and I do think this category offers some excellent possibilities -- with a few caveats of course.
I think the biggest caveat is picking the right plant. I've tried certain perennial groundcovers (Pachysandra procumbens, Hexastylis arifolia) that have struggled and died (or barely survived) rather than covering any ground.
Conversely, I've tried some exotic groundcovers like Ajuga reptans, Rubus calycinoides (creeping raspberry), Pratia pedunculata (blue star creeper), Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (hardy blue plumbago), Galium odoratum (sweet woodruff) and Teucrium chamaedrys (creeping germander) that all turned out to be more trouble than they were worth.
What makes an undesirable groundcover?
As with certain woody plants, rambunctiousness definitely comes into the picture. We all think we want a fast groundcover to cover lots of ground quickly, but what happens when the groundcover reaches the limits of whatever space you want covered? Do you want a constant battle with a bully that's trying to take over your whole garden -- and perhaps a neighboring natural ecosystem to boot?
What other tendencies, behaviors or traits might make a groundcover undesirable in my book?
1) Underground operations -- Some groundcovers look innocent and well-behaved above ground, while secretly spreading a wide web of roots below the soil surface. It can be very hard to control the spread of these plants. Also, if you do decide to try to uproot a groundcover that has spread its roots far and wide, there's a good chance you'll miss a piece of root that can regenerate a whole new plant when you're not looking. And if the whole top inch or two of soil is inundated with the roots of the groundcover, other plants in the bed could have difficulty competing for nutrients and other resources.
2) Woody bits -- In my experience, it's necessary to cut back the woody old growth on plants like creeping germander and creeping raspberry. That's not fun and it's certainly more tedious than dealing with a purely herbaceous groundcover.
3) Not too aggressive -- As with much of gardening (and life in general?) there's a bit of a Catch-22 here. You want a plant that's at least somewhat assertive. You don't want a pushover that lets any weed muscle its way through, but you (or at least I) don't want a plant that's going to dominate a bed and romp over everything else in its path, including small shrubbery (I'm looking at you Melissa officinalis, lemon balm).
So which herbaceous groundcovers have fit the bill so far for me here in Middle Tennessee? So far I've had good luck with Fragaria virginiana (wild strawberry), several Epimedium species, Geranium sanguineum and Geranium x cantabrigiense. The threadleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) has been very nice too in certain places, although it seems a little picky. I've got six plants that are absolutely thriving in full sun and amended soil, but ones in full sun and solid unamended clay are struggling and another patch in shade seems to be dying out. Rose verbena (Glandularia canadensis) might work out too, although I've heard that's also short-lived.
|Here's a skipper butterfly on some rose verbena (Glandularia canadensis) flowers.|
It's also worth considering clumping herbaceous perennials that reseed (or can be propagated by scattering or burying seeds in your garden). Plants like Agastache foeniculum (anise hyssop), Echinacea (coneflower) species or perhaps Heliopsis helianthoides (false sunflower) can block weeds, support wildlife, look beautiful and function en masse as groundcovers. Even some of the Baptisia (false indigo) species might fit that bill.
|This bushy coneflower occupies space, shelters the soil and blocks weeds.|
|Bushy perennials like Aralia racemosa can shade out and block many weeds. Unlike a shrub, there's no worry about pruning this plant to keep it in check. Come autumn, the thin stems of Aralia racemosa will collapse and quickly decompose back into the soil.|
|Some milkweeds have an upright growth habit, but this particular species (Asclepias viridis) seems to have more of a groundcover habit.|
|Not many weeds growing beneath this bushy Baptisia australis|
|This bushy blue mistflower (Conoclinium coelestinum) has not spread much yet, but it has a reputation that makes me think it could work as a groundcover. So far, it hasn't even flowered and yet I like it quite a bit anyway. The dark foliage seems dense enough to block any weeds and it seems like the perfect height - not so tall that it would compete with most bushes, but tall enough both to block weeds and to give me a good grip if I want to pull or cut any errant stems.|
|Native narrowleaf mountain mint (Pycnanthemum tenuifolium) also seems to do an excellent job of blocking weeds in its immediate vicinity.|
|Pay not attention to the geranium in the foreground. What I'm trying to show here are those ground-hugging rosettes of foliage lurking beneath the oakleaf hydrangea in the background. That's Erigeron pulchellus (Robin's plantain), and it actually seems to make a great semi-evergreen native groundcover.|
|Don't see any weeds beneath the 'canopy' of this perennial native senna (Senna marilandica)|
|The broad foliage of Solidago sphacelata 'Golden Fleece' does an excellent job of blocking weeds. (Of course, as the small spurge plant in the foreground indicates, even nearby uncovered soil is fair game for weeds.)|
|In sun or shade, aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium) makes a sense and bushy perennial groundcover, especially if the growing tips are cut back in early summer. I don't think aromatic aster spreads from the roots, but it does seem prone to self-sowing, which could help it cover quite a bit of ground over time.|
As you can tell, I'm still rolling groundcover ideas around in my head - and probably will continue to do so in the years ahead.
I apologize for the lengthy ramblings and would love to hear your thoughts on the matter!
If you were planning to start a new, large garden bed, how would you plan short-term and long-term to keep down the weeds?
Do you see mulch as a viable long-term choice or a short-term stopgap?
If you were looking for an alternative to mulch, would you rely on trees, shrubs, clumping perennials, groundcover-type perennials or self-sowing annuals to fill in the space and outcompete (at least some) weeds?
Thursday, July 28, 2016
Gardens are always changing and evolving.
Originally, my garden was almost all full sun.
Now, as I've let the 'Natchez' crape myrtles grow unfettered, I have some shady spots along the patio from spring to autumn once the crapes have leafed out.
So... dear readers, any suggestions from your own personal experiences as to which shade-loving plants I should try?
I have a few ideas already in mind...
|Anemone virginiana, thimbleweed (photo via Lindley Ashline)|
|Aralia racemosa, American spikenard (photo via Distant Hill Gardens)|
I have one of these plants growing along the front of the house in that east-facing, full-morning-sunshine bed, but I'm going to try to transplant it to a shadier spot where I think it would be happier.
|Aruncus dioicus, goat's beard (photo via Megan Hansen)|
|Asarum canadense, American ginger (photo via Kevin Faccenda)|
|Blephilia ciliata, downy wood mint (photo via Ali Eminov)|
|Clematis versicolor, pale leatherflower (photo via Sonnia Hill)|
|Cunila origanoides, dittany (photo via Fritz Flohr Reynolds)|
|Erigeron pulchellus, Robin's plantain|
I already have this plant in my garden in a variety of settings, including some pretty shady spots, so I think it should grow fine beneath the crape myrtles.
|Iris cristata, dwarf crested iris (photo via Andrew Hoffman)|
Any thoughts on these plants?
I have some other plants already in the garden - Agastache foeniculum, for example - that already grow here and probably will spread further. They seem quite at home in the shade.
And I've found that other perennials - Amsonia tabernaemontana 'Blue Ice' and Echinacea purpurea, for instance - may be marketed as full sun plants, but are surprisingly tolerant of a good deal of shade.
But I know that some other plants have declined as the shade has increased. Coreopsis verticillata is dying out in spots (although I've heard that this can be a short-lived plant). Baptisia australis (blue false indigo) is hanging tough, but I suspect it would be more upright, floriferous and generally happier in a full sun spot. (I scattered some of its seeds in a full sun bed, and the seedlings seem more robust and vigorous than the lax, louche plant that lolls about in shade alongside the patio.)
I welcome your advice and suggestions! ~
Saturday, July 23, 2016
It's been a bit of a challenging year to garden so far.
We had a really dry spring (a 7 inch rainfall deficit at one point).
Then we made that up with torrential rains in July, but we've settled (like much of the country) into an uncomfortably hot and humid weather pattern.
So even though I don't want to toot my horn, I must say I'm rather pleased that the garden has been looking pretty good - - and with very little supplemental water (I think I've only watered with a hose about 4 times this year, plus other occasional spot waterings with a can.)
Without further ado, here are some scenes that caught my eye when I was in the garden on July 20th.
|Gaillardia x grandiflora and bumblebee|
|Gaillardia x grandiflora and a teeny-tiny bee (not its real name)|
|Hibiscus moscheutos, this is the straight species version of our native hibiscus. (I also have the 'Luna Pink Swirl' hybrid or cultivar of H. moscheutos.) This is my first year growing the straight species. It's in full sun on an unamended clay hillside and seems to be thriving, despite the fact that it would probably prefer wet-to-moist conditions.|
|Perovskia atriplificolia, Russian sage. I moved three Russian sages to more of a full sun location and generally they seem much happier and more floriferous in their new spot. That said, I've still seen some of the yellowing foliage and even wilting of entire branches that I've noticed when they were in partial shade. It's my opinion that they do not like our humidity (which has been especially high this summer) or the heavy clay soil. The Russian sage flowers seem highly attractive to pollinators, especially honeybees.|
|Coreopsis verticillata 'Zagreb', attracts lots of little pollinators|
|French marigold, Tagetes patula|
|Hibiscus syriacus, rose of Sharon, 'Diana' cultivar|
|Cosmos bipinnatus and bee.|
|Agastache foeniculum (anise hyssop) and bee|
|'Red Rocks' penstemon and bee. I have three of these Red Rocks penstemons. I cut back two of them after the main bloom and left the third one (this one) uncut. They're all starting to rebloom a little now, which makes me think that it may not make any difference (at least in terms of stimulating more flowers) whether or not you cut them back. That said, I'll keep an eye on the plants over the next month or two to see whether there's any difference in terms of flower quantity or overall form between the penstemons that were pruned and those that were left au naturel.|
|Lagerstroeima indica 'Natchez' (crape myrtle). In bloom for about two months now. The flowers attract lots of pollinators. (Not every crape myrtle seems equally attractive to pollinators. I rarely see any pollinators on my pink-flowered crape, but these white-flowered Natchez crapes are often buzzing with bees all day.)|
|Cosmos bipinnatus with skipper butterfly. White-flowered 'Diana' rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) in the background.|
|Glandularia canadensis (rose verbena)|
|Large milkweed bug (Oncopeltus fasciatus) on rose milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)|
|More Cosmos bipinnatus with bumblebee|
|If you look very closely, you can see lots of pollinators crawling through the flower cluster on this Asclepias incarnata (rose milkweed). Oh and there's a large milkweed bug hanging out beneath a leaf in the lower part of the picture!|
|Coreopsis lanceolata (lanceleaf coreopsis)|
|Coreopsis tinctoria (plains coreopsis) with pollinator|
|Heliopsis helianthoides (false sunflower) with bumblebee|
|Polanisia dodecandra (redwhisker clammyweed)|
|Helianthus annuus (sunflower) with bees|
|Ailanthus webworm moth on Agastache foeniculum (anise hyssop)|
|Aralia racemosa (American spikenard), those are the tiny greenish-white flowers -- not very showy, but they do seem to attract a lot of little pollinators. The plant itself is in morning sun and afternoon shade. It's hanging tough, but it doesn't seem all that happy. I plan to try to transplant it to a shadier spot this autumn.|
|Just a pretty, colorful tableau - sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) in the front, 'Rozanne' cranesbill geranium behind it and a few blue balloon flowers (Platycodon grandiflorus) peeking into the upper left corner.|
Hope you enjoyed this quick tour through the July garden.
What are some of your favorite summer flowers blooming in your garden right now?